Leopard geckos will eat a variety of insects. As for there staple diet crickets or mealworms do just fine. When using crickets make sure they are gut loaded 24 hrs in advanced. To do this place a potato in with the crickets with them and don`t feed them to your gecko until at east 24 hrs. Before feeding offering the crickets dust them in a calcium/ D3 powder. When offering mealworms as there staple diet, just place them in a shallow dish or lid. As for the calcium/D3 powder, just place it in the dish too. For treats you can feed them wax worms or super worms. They can be offered but only a couple a week and only as an adult. One and two day old pinkie mice dusted in calcium/D3 powder can be offered to breeding females no more than once a week and only while breeding. This gives them a large calcium boost. It is very important to offer calcium/D3 powder to breeding females daily, for egg production uses much of there calcium that is stored in there tail.

Lighting & Heating

No special lighting is required for leopard geckos unless it is being used for heat. If so a fifty or sixty watt day light heat bulb will do just fine. Leopard geckos need a heat gradient, therefore place a heat mat under one side of the enclosure keeping the temperature at 90 degrees Fahrenheit and the cool side at about 75 degrees. Make sure to provide shelters at the hot and cool sides so the Leo can feel comfortable at any temp.

Water & Humidity

Make sure you provide your leopard gecko with fresh clean water daily. Good humidity helps in the shedding process, but too much is not good.


Caging is very simple. A ten gallon aquarium will house a pair of leopard geckos. Anything with smooth sides will work great since they cannot climb up the walls. Also because they can`t climb smooth sides you do not need a screen top. It will not however keep cats out or things from falling in.


You must be careful when choosing substrate, because leopard geckos will eat and ingest particles of the substrate to use as grit. Many breeders will use plain paper towels, floor tile, or on the plastic or glass bottom of the enclosure. If using something else use caution, because of the impactions.


Leopard geckos need to be handled with care. When small they are very easily startled, when holding they will often jump or leap out of your hands. If a gecko is scared it may leap from your hands and take a fatal fall if you are standing up. Until they are older it is best to handle them in there cage or while sitting on the floor. Whenever you do handle remember to never squeeze or pinch because they will drop there tail off. If they every drop there tail, they must be isolated and given calcium/D3 powder daily. It will regenerate back over time, but it will not look the same. They will almost never bite, but sometimes younger leos will screech. When you first hear this it might make you jump so don`t worry it is totally natural.


Most leopard gecko care sheets suggest they should shed their skin often, about once every three weeks. If humidity is low, they can have problems with shedding, especially around the toes. If not taken seriously there can have their toes fall off. The best way to assure proper shedding is to offer a moist hide. This is a shelter or a deli cup with a hole cut in the side for an entrance. Fill with a small layer of moist peat moss, sphagnum moss, or Bed-a-Beast. Keep an inexpensive spray bottle filled with water to keep the moss moist.